Adeptus Titanicus: Warhound unboxing

Hi all. Been a busy week, so busy in fact that I just picked up my Warhounds tonight!!

Just thought a quick sprue review would be cool. 

The legs go together very well. They are very dynamic. I ended up cutting the hip lugs off of one of mine to get a slightly different pose, this worked well. 

The Torsos flew together too. I love the iconography on the Carapace. I hope that FW make it so each option is available to the Warhound Kit in time :)

It’s great that you get two of each weapon in the pack. As I am trying to match loudouts to my 28mm equivalents, I have opted for a Plasma Blastgun and Turbo Laser for Seething Released, and Vulcan Mega-Bolter and Turbo Laser Destructor for Canticum Malitae. 

Thee we have it. Hope to get some paint on them before the end of the week. 

Adeptus Titanicus: Legio Mortis Reaver Titans Progress 09/10/2018

Hi all

Here we go. Got some distance with my first 2 Reaver Titans for Adeptus Titanicus. 

Hopefully I will steam through these guys relatively quickly. 

I’m toying with the idea of utilising some stripes etc from other Knight/Titan Transfer sheets here and there. 

Adeptus Titanicus: Knight House Malinax finished

Hi all

I have finished my House Malinax Knights now for Adeptus Titanicus. 

This is them after Testor’s Dullcote. 

I will be finishing the banners and shields after the transfer sheet is released. 

I’m happy how the depression foot prints came out too. 

My next project is possibly either 2 AT Reavers or a 40k Daemon Mortarion for a White Dwarf Competition I have been asked to enter. 

Beasts of Chaos Battletome

Hi all

Here is a review of the Beasts of Chaos Battletome.

Lets start by looking at the fluff! The Beasts of Chaos believe themselves to be the true, pure children of Chaos. They inhabit the mortal realms in great big war hosts called Greatfrays. Each Greatfray has a distinct way of fighting, hierarchy or deity that they worship - really it’s just a great way for players to take a chance to do what they want. The Beasts of Chaos have an unknown origin and it is only speculated at where they came from. 

Some of these Greatfrays owe allegiance to the major Chaos gods, such as the Twistfrays who worship and have gifts from Tzeentch and the Rotfrays who are corrupted by Nurgle.

The main Greatfray is called the Allherd which seems a bit like a good all-round standard with tonnes of variety. Personally I like the sound of the Rotfrays as I can imaging all of the bloated and diseased conversion possibilities. 

Each of these major Greatfrays have access to their own Command ability, spell and Artefact of power and they also gain an army wide buff to reflect their fluff. 

There are also paint guides in the book to show you different ways of painting your Beasts of Chaos force to match the different Greatfrays.

Included in the book is also a section of artefacts, command abilities and spells which can be used for each faction within the Beasts of Chaos book, such as Brayherds, Warherds and Thunderscorn.

All in all, this is a great book with many options to keep Beastmen players happy.

Hope this has given you a taste of the book but for more information Warhammer Community have done some solid previews which can be found here:

https://www.warhammer-community.com/2018/09/11/11th-sept-battletome-beasts-of-chaos-preview-1-the-army-with-loads-of-allegiance-abilitiesgw-homepage-post-4/

Adeptus Titanicus: Knight House Malinax 01/10/2018

Hi all. Getting ever closer now. 

I have all transfers on (apart from Heraldic banner which I am waiting for the coloured transfers of to complete properly). 

I have Decided to use Strickland Mud for the bases. I love scenic bases but I always edge towards generic dark bases so to not have my Engines look too out of place on Battlefields. 

Following on from some feedback I have added some edge highlighting too. :)

Hector Cephas; Magnetising Reaver Titans

Hi all,

Given the amount of questions I've seen on social media in regards to magnetising a Reaver titan and the different approaches people have suggested, I've decided to throw my hat in the ring and outline what I did. I won't take the credit for it as it was an idea pitched by a friend of mine who I thought had a strange fascination in 3x2 magnets but it turns out that it is entirely justified and worked nicely with the Reaver!

Nice convenient thing about the Reavers shoulder assembly is that it gives you a big pilot hole for drilling. It's about 3mm in diameter at the bottom so it's pretty much perfect to use 3mm diameter magnets and having ones with a depth of say... 2mm... it gives you more to glue to the structure around it, it's pretty much perfect.

The harder bit in my option was actually magnetising the arms:

1. You have to drill into a ball
2. We don't know if we are getting arms for weapon upgrades or whether we need to use the ones we got with the kit so what do I magnetise?

For point 1 - I have huge hands, and naturally huge fingers so attempting any drilling without a vice was going to end in tears. Fortunately, if you haven't got one, you can get hobby vices cheaply (£9 at Homebase and I am sure you can do better online too - I just didn't want to wait). What I recommend you do is:

1. Identify the *top* of the ball - remember the arms are at an angle, the base of the arm where it connects to the gun should be level.
2. Put the arm in your hobby vice top up and file the point where you want to drill to reduce the chance of the drill slipping
3. Use a crafting knife and a 1mm drill to create a small pilot hole (again to reduce the chance of the drill slipping)
4. Drill with a 3mm drill bit so the arm is ready for your magnet
5. Glue the magnet in

For point 2 - I didn't take any chances, my arm sections are magnetised top and bottom and the guns are also magnetised. To magnetise the rest of the arm very simply just put the part in question in your vice (drilling surface up) and do steps 3-5. As a bit of a helpful hint as well, I'd recommend using something like an ice lolly stick for ensuring your put your magnets in correctly:

The bit that has "Magnum" on it has my magnet I use for ensuring I have put my weapon magnets in the right way up. The opposite side is for the counterpart magnet so my weapons don't get repelled from the rest of the model. Doing it this way ensures that all of your weapons are magnetised in the exact same way so you can swap weapons between arms as you like!

Oh, and by the way, for all you guys who have lots of 5x1 magnets left over from building your warlords - good news, you can use them to magnetise your apocalype missile launchers!

In total, for each Reaver you are magnetising, you will need:

1. 2 5x1mm magnets
2. 9 3x2mm magnets (2 for the shoulders, 4 for the arm sections, 2 for the guns, 1 for the close combat arm)

All in all, it took me about 3-4 hours to fully magnetise my 6 Reavers but I did them all in batch which cut down on a lot of time wastage. Like the build for the Reaver, it is worth taking the time to make sure you get it right. I personally feel the approach I took is the better approach to magnetising the Reaver for me but that's more because it falls in my comfort zone - I wouldn't be comfortable removing most of the ball from the arms and or trying to mount a larger magnet in the shoulder socket using green stuff to make the platform for it whereas I'm happy to drill holes just fine. There are a few other tutorials and hints and tips on social media so if you aren't so happy with drilling through the shoulder then you probably can find a different approach that you may prefer on Facebook.

Until next time,

Hector Cephas

COMMUNITY QUESTION: Help me get started with 3D printing

Hi all

I am really looking into getting into 3D printing now, mainly to do some terrain designs and the like. 

Issue is, I don’t know where to start with the purchasing. 

It needs to be very high quality prints (so a higher spec machine is what I am after). 

I am interested in the printers which print the dissolvable construction lines too (to reduce shadow construction supports or what ever they are called in the industry) but this is not a necessity. 

I am ok with either resin or plastic mould Engines. 

I am proficient in AutoCAD and making 3D models. 

So any help Guys is very appreciated. I would be tempted to go to some big exhibitions in the UK too if you can recommend any. 

Adeptus Titanicus: Knight House Malinax 21/09/2018

Hi all

I have taken my Mini Knights a bit further today. I have almost finished one as a test. 

I used Klear, Nuln oil and Agrax Earthshade with a splash of water for the shading, but before I put it on I covered the armour plates in Klear wax, put transfers on with the help of Micro Sol and Set, then used ard’ coat over the top to fix. I Kleared it first to reduce staining. 

It is glossy currently, but I will bring be Testor Dull coating it when finished. 

One issue that has presented itself is: What shall I do for the shields? What shall I do for the banners too?

Well. This transfer sheet needs to come out soon!! As you can see there are banners, Red Scorpions and other iconography. 

Sooo I think they will be brought to a gaming standard and left until these sheets are released. 

Planning a Sector Imperialis Board

Good evening everyone!

Recently I have been heading back into the Warhammer 40,000 universe to play the awesome new (updated) release of Kill Team!

Whilst assembling the new modular imperial sector terrain kit, it became apparent to me that it wasn't designed to work the the Realm of Battle board. To make it work would take a ton of work that I really can't be bothered with. So I have started on the road to planning my own modular city board. If this proves to be a popular article then I will show more of my planning stages and stage by stage assembly, if not then I will show you when I am finished. This article is to show you why I feel the board is not fit for purpose and also to show some of my inspiration so far.

Here is what the Kill Team board looks like with some  assembled buildings:

As you can see, footpaths are everywhere and you would have to plan your buildings around the idea that the boards would be static and never changing for it to work. A bit like the awesome work that Peachy from Warhammer TV has done here:

This is further evidenced on the boards at Warhammer World where the buildings are created to be static situ, which is no good for a modular board:

My other criticism for the Imperial Sector is the textures. Who is coming along and hoovering out the footpath? There is no debris or anything! Just take a walk down your local shopping centre and you will see every gap in the pavement is full of some crap! Guiding a pushchair on the Imperial Sector footpath would be an absolute nightmare! You would dread popping to Tesco!

So I would like to go for something more like the Forge World design:

The examples above are a mix of Forge World and custom and I think exactly what I would be looking for. Again, the Forge World boards are not designed with the new terrain kit in mind and also the road system sucks balls. 

I would love to see/hear about some inspirational boards that you know of and I am keen for any feedback. I would also like to hear from anybody with a lazer cutting machine that can do plasticard, foam board and MDF. 

Thanks for reading my post. If I get a few comments I will keep you informed. If not I will see you at the end lol

Stay fluffy

Kaelo

Hector Cephas; Adeptus Titanicus Progress

Hiya everybody,

My original plan went out of the window with the rapid release of the Reaver titan plus my sudden keen for LoTR again - I'll blame the guys at Ibuywargames for that one, that practice game you guys did reminded me how much I enjoyed the Hobbit!

Anyway, the upshot of this is that while my time spent painting my warlords dropped, I have managed to get a good couple of days building Reavers this weekend. They aren't done yet which might surprise you until you see why...

Yup, that's 6 of them, spent an awful lot of time tidying up the bits before building them however I think I saved a lot of time by building them all at the same time. The way I went about it was building the individual bits of the legs (lower, upper, pistons, crotch, feet) and used an organiser box to well... organise... the bits. This also meant that rather than dealing with a single Reaver at a time and therefore thinking at each stage how I need to position one Reaver, I could instead consider them all at once and make sure that I mixed it up with the poses etc.

As the build progressed, the contents of the box evolved. Torsos gained shoulder mounts so I had to remove some of the dividers to make room for the larger parts, legs got assembled so I gained room for the weapon arms, and so on. In short, my whole build process was centered on this single box - helpfully avoided the anguish caused by the dreaded "part 23" that I'd heard about on Facebook and it kept me focused on each individual step of the build so I didn't miss anything else in the process. Also, speaking of awkward parts of the build - if you have big hands, make sure you have tweasers available to you as the leg cables can be very frustrating to glue into place correctly to not impede other cables and not knock any other cables out of alignment.

That's pretty much it for now - just waiting on some smaller magnets to arrive and then I can get cracking on with magnetising and then priming these Reavers.

Until next time!
Hector Cephas