Saturday, 25 February 2017

Community Question: Weathering Powders - How do you use yours?

Hello all

I am opening this up for discussion: How do you use your weathering powders?


I am a fan of the effects you can get with weathering powders, especially around tracks and shins. The issues I generally find is, that as soon as I start gaming with them I somehow manage to get my fingers on the powdered parts and transport finger prints across the model. 

I have tried to seal them, but with often undesirable results. 

Or are they just for display miniatures only?

Any advice to share with the world?

Drake Seta

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25 comments:

  1. The GunGrave25 February 2017 at 09:44

    I've used them for years and am a big fan! I never seal mine in - tried it once on my Death Guard Spartan and it changed the colour completely. I find mine 'dry' over time, stopping them coming off on your fingers. I use MIG powders though.

    That being said I'm sure there is a way to seal then without ruining the effect...

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    1. Drake Seta25 February 2017 at 22:57

      Yeah I had a similar problem on one of mine. It looked great, then I added White Spirits to fix it and it just chaneged the whole effect.

      Delete
  2. Ronald25 February 2017 at 10:58

    There are sealers that should not discolour the pigments they're applied to.
    MIG and AKs Pigment Fixers should leave things looking pretty much exactly as you applied them.
    You just need to be very careful applying the fixer.

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    1. Drake Seta25 February 2017 at 22:59

      Thanks Ronald. I have bought the AK Interactive Pigment fixer now. So I will have a go and hope for the best.

      Delete
  3. Unknown25 February 2017 at 11:20

    Hi all,

    I've been following this site for a long time, really love your work especially the bate reps.

    I thought I'd share my experience of pigments, I've been experimenting for some time with different methods over the last year.

    I've found that dusty effect is really hard to fix effectively. I've had some success with humbrol decal fix, mix it 50:50 to water and add pigment to suit, it dries in the exact tone of the pigment, the only problem is you can get water marks. However, you can reactivate and manipulate the pigment just by adding water. It has its uses, and you can use it for streaking effects.

    I've just started using AK pigment fixer, it does changes the tone of the pigment as it seem enamel based, but by building up multiple layers you can intensify the effect. Lighter colours do tend to get lost a little.

    Also, you seem to be lacking a XXth legion player 😉, I'm working on the XXth if you're interested.....

    Cadmus

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    1. Drake Seta25 February 2017 at 23:03

      Ah so if I did one dry powder coat, fix, another dry powder coat, fix; it would give me pretty much the same look as a single powder coat which has not been fixed?

      And thanks Cadmus, we have Castiel trimming XXth Legion now, and Spectre is scheduled to do them after. So there should me more from the Alpha and the Omega soon.

      Delete
  4. Ed25 February 2017 at 12:43

    This might sound like the weirdest thing, but I found that if you mixed a bit of powder with some micro sol you make a sort of wash that, when dry, gives quite a nice dusty effect and doesn't seem to rub off.

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    1. Drake Seta25 February 2017 at 23:04

      So it's a wet coat? Not a powder? Do you get tide marks etc from it?

      Delete
    2. Chris27 February 2017 at 20:12

      Not that weird really. That technique ist called a pigment wash. I saw it on a video from Secret Weapons Miniatures. Works really well with water too, it gives you a chance to manipulate the powders before sealing them in. I use this technique on my Imperial Fists and Knight bases, to get a rust effect in between the floor plates. On a gloss coat, I apply a generous amount of wash, let it dry a couple of minutes an then wipe the bases down with some moist paper towels. Seal it in with dull coat and it gives you a great dist effect.

      Delete
  5. Unknown25 February 2017 at 13:27

    Personally I've never got round to trying these, I go a bit out of the box for my weathering techniques. For example, I use old engine oil alot from my bike, or instant coffee mixed with just enough water to make a paste (especially good for nurgle). You'd be surprised how much simple house hold items can be useful in modelling.

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    1. Drake Seta25 February 2017 at 23:06

      Wow. That is peculiar. I did see a video of a guy who mixed Lahmian Medium with real mud to get muddy tracks. Looked effective to be honest.

      Delete
    2. Unknown26 February 2017 at 01:54

      Used motor oil is especially effective for death guard, works well on vehicles as well and I have found it to be especially useful for muzzle burn.

      Delete
  6. Shawn Lowrey25 February 2017 at 14:46

    I dust my models then use turpentine to let it get into the recesses and 'flow'. After that I use Testors dull coat on the models. I have never had a problem with the weathering powders coming off, and it looks great on my marines and tanks.

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    1. Drake Seta25 February 2017 at 23:08

      I think that dust in recess look is needed for weathering powders, so Turpentine (white Spirits over here) is good for it.

      I tried sealing dry powder once with purity seal, but it just made it spotty. Maybe if I fix it first it might be better.

      Delete
    2. Unknown26 February 2017 at 00:11

      Turps and white spirit aren't the same thing - from a very brief series of oil painting classes, I been to recall that they have slightly different effects on how paints flow and blend. I think turps may have less of an effect on the weathering pigment than white spirit (although I've rarely used pigments at all!)

      Delete
    3. Drake Seta26 February 2017 at 17:43

      Ooooh. Ok. I did not know that. Cheers for that :)

      Delete
  7. Nogle25 February 2017 at 15:04

    I think this looks great for display pieces, but harder to keep from problems over long periods of gameplay.

    Then Again, I'm a world eater player that doesn't do this, or splattered blood, so what do I know, lol

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  8. Dr Dave25 February 2017 at 15:12

    I just seal mine with Dulcote, doesn't change the colour, in fact I prefer the effect once it's sealed

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    1. Drake Seta25 February 2017 at 23:08

      Does it mottle it?

      Delete
    2. Dr Dave26 February 2017 at 06:25

      No but it does turn it from a dusty texture to more of a blended shade. Still looks really good.

      Delete
  9. Zab25 February 2017 at 18:44

    add a drop or two of matte medium to some water and use the capillary action to set them in place without ruining that dusty look. You can seal them with matte spray but it knocks the effect way back so you have to add about 30% more to make it look right once sealed. You can also mix some ink or wash with water and medium to set them and effect their color too :)

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    1. Drake Seta25 February 2017 at 23:10

      Thanks Zab. I think I agree. I will allow more powder, knowing that it will be dulled or thinned, before sealing.

      Delete
    2. Qlippot26 February 2017 at 03:50

      A drop or two applied via capillary action tends to be what Secret Weapon recommends for their fixative if you want a dusty look.

      Given all the flammability warnings on the stuff, I assume it's akin to white spirit.

      Delete
  10. The Great A'tuin26 February 2017 at 09:33

    I apply the powders with alcohol, then once dry I airbrush the mini with vallejo matt varnish. As long as you apply it gently there's no big colour change.

    Hope it helps

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  11. Chris Snorek26 February 2017 at 14:15

    Hi All, I use scenery cement to apply and seal both. It maintains the powdery/dry look quite well.

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