Sunday 26 November 2017

Community Question: Painting advice and weathering for Necromunda

Hi all. 

There are some great pieces of terrain at Warhammer World for the new Necromunda Specialist game. The aesthetics and colours are very different from a standard imperial ZM board. I have been looking at several pieces of terrain and have been trying to work out how they were painted. Any advice/recommendations would be appreciated.  

1:





Old weathered Iron
I love how these were painted, but I would love to know how the rusted metal work was achieved as it is so effective here 

2:





Simple yet effective ZM boards:
I would be interested to know how they achieved this simple scheme on both the walls and tiles. 

So just the above. 

And here are some other nice terrain pieces for your perusal



















Drake Seta

13 comments:

  1. Would you look at that, they found the one spot that on the ZM boards that fit the plastic doors. I can only imagine the surprise when the actual Games Workshop employee figured out that they don't fit the door ways.

    As for the paint job, it looks like the weathering effects over an airbrush job. that rust in the deep crevasses is a dead give away. The only other way to do that is to start with rust and layer the final color over it, but the rust is clearly diffused on the stone tiles, not chipped like what you get with a salt blocking or whathave you.

    should be fast, and its correct compared to dry brushing. which would make the top most parts rusty, not the hidden small lower bits that would soak in the hive juices.

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  2. For the rust effect, they probably used weathering powders.

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  3. Why only tiny pictures all of a sudden?

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    Replies
    1. They're full-sized if you open them in separate tabs, must be the method they're linking them with.

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    2. Hi. The Blogger App went the way of the MKVII marine, so we have had to switch to a new system. I am chatting with the developer, but I have already found a way to resize the images (which are many times higher res now than our previous ones), but I still am at a loss to know how to click on an image to view independently. Hopefully it will be sorted soon, otherwise you can download and view.

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  4. Iron> boltgunmetal, wash with doombull brown heavily, stipple with deathclaw brown or tau sept ochre, slopy uneven wash of sepia or reikland or agrax or nuln in various places

    Ice and slime> fluro paints with water fx and maybe some hevay gloss gel to give them some texture.

    you dont need powders but if you get them i suggest earthpigments.com especially if you are doing terrain as you get enough to drown an elephant. if you do use powders wear a mask so of them are toxic like the cadmium red and lead white o_O

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    Replies
    1. downside, earthpigments.com only ships to the USA and Canada, nowhere else. :(

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    2. that's new, visit your local art store the usually sell dry pigments and hard pastels you can turn into dry pigments ;P

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  5. Paul Rudge (forge world) is an expert at this stuff. In the past, he has used oil paint washes of ochre colored oil paints thinned with white spirits, and mixed with a little bit of weathering powder. I've used it before and it works really well to get the rust colored effect. Once it dries, you can drybrush metallic colors over it, or use the old fashioned graphite stick at sharp edges. Then you need a good artist's fixative before using a typical finishing overspray.

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    Replies
    1. I think he painted a few things this way in Masterclass I.

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  6. Looks like someone grabbed the book "AK 307 Extreme Reality" and started using actual diorama modelling techniques on these playing fields.
    This looks like a mix of oil washes and weathering powders to get the right finish.

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    Replies
    1. In general, the display and diorama teams for Warhammer World aren't limited to Citadel products and techniques. Their only job is getting it looking great.

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  7. definitely used weathering powders

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