Pre-Heresy Death Guard; Legion Medusa part 2

With the main chipped and damaged part of the vehicle well underway I decided to up my painting xp some more. I really wanted a rusty rail for the Death Guard to lean on when not bombing the enemies of the Emperor. So after trawling through the Masterclass books I found a technique. 

One. Splotches of rust made from various shades of Forge world powders and occasional light splotches of sepia and powder mixes were applied to the model. These were then drowned with white spirits to bed them in slightly. When drying you dab the rust splotches down haphazardly. Don't forget the supports. 

Two. Whilst covering one half of the model, spray a hairspray on the model and scatter a very minuscule amount of sand on it whilst wet. The more sand the dustier it will look. Being carful to get a few grains on the supports. 

Three. Spray your desired metal colours onto the dried surface. 

Four. Using a hard paintbrush or needle, knock and scratch the grains of sand off. This will leave the surfaces splotchy and streaky. Then purity seal the section. 

I have also added the main cannon now. So next onto the crew and details. 

Drake Seta

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Pre-Heresy Death Guard; Legion Medusa part 1

So. . . it should have been 10 more Legionnaires but I had blacked out for an hour at Warhammer World and I had this little beauty. 

Luckily it is in my 2000 pt list so don't feel too guilty. At least I can be taken as an ally :)

So how did I do it. Well I need to up my painting experience points so I decided to do a tank which I would follow one of the Forge World Masterclass book guides for advice. Soooooo. . . . 

Starting with assembling hull and keeping  the tracks, landing and other metal parts Separate I sprayed the hull skull white and tracks Tamiya Gun metal. 

At this point ignore the gun being silver. I have since redone as white. 

Then I did a green stripe with the help of masking tape. This was done from Castellan green to Elysian green with an air brush. I then sponged a touch of White at the green edges to represent green paint getting scratched off. 

I then did a spray of 2 part Tamiya flat earth and 1 part Tamiya flat flesh 5 part Tamiya thinner really lightly over the dusty areas. 

Then a light sponging of equal parts Rhinox hide, Warplock bronze and chaos black on the raised areas. 

Then we Purity seal coat the model to help with the next stage; the oil wash of Burnt umber. 

Bare in mind this is my first ever time using this technique or even oil paints. 

Medusa - Pre oil. 

Ok then. On your Palette put a small amount of burnt umber oil paint. Thin it with a bit of white spirits to a slightly thicker than wash consistency. 

Do one face of the tank at a time. Paint it on around rivets, vents and panels. Eww. That looks terrible at the moment! Once this face was done I moved straight onto the step below. 

Then after the paint has dried (10 mins). cover every surface on the side with white spirits using a clean brush. When all panels are wet you then blend the oil in. Using a hot hair drier helps too to heat the oil. You can manipulate it better when hot. Try to keep certain areas whiter where they will receive less grime. 

Then I bust out my AK streaking paints again after leaving the oil to dry for a day. I use "Rust streaks" and "streaking grime" for this vehicle and my Death Guard. 

Draw a vertical thin line with the enamel colour, wait 5 mins, then with a clean brush paint white spirits on downwards to blend the streaks in. 

I will continue this tank over the next few days. 

Forge World Cityscape: Isstvan 3 (Istvaan 3) day 8. Cityscape finished.

Forge World Cityscape Finished. That is right. Khall and I have finally completed our Cityfight / Isstvan 3 board. 

The final board sections were finished today. Using the AK streaking kit I streaked the Generatorum sector to give it a dirt and grime running look on its earthy grey foundations. 

The weathering powder has been done subtlety and just finishes off the model. We used: MIG gulf war sand, Rubble dust, industrial city dirt (lots) and of the FW range Dark earth and light earth. 

Below are each of our completed sectors:

And below are some landscape pics. 

Might Scorch damage this one day soon. Was greyed up with Fortress grey to soften the white. 

It has been a pleasure to work on this board. As soon as Blake Spence gets some more done we will double its size I think. So now on to the buildings which will sit on top. 

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Drake Seta

Pre-Heresy Death Guard: Scouring and scuffing

Just an update of where I am up to. 

I have almost finished my first 20 Legionnaires. The Sergeant with a Power Scythe still has some work to do though as I have to convert him to hold a Deathshroud Terminator Weapon. 

I have decided to create scuff marks for my Legion using Storm Vermin fur very lightly sponged at the raised edges. This represents a surface (in this case Ceramite white) being scuffed and scored, therefore allowing dirt / grime / dust etc to settle in those parts. It is not paint chipping off. 

My Sergeant poorly blutac'd for shot. 

Also I have trialled the AK Interactive streaking paints. Below are the results of my first few attempts. Very easy to use. Just draw a vertical line or several next to each other. Give it 5 mins then with a relatively white spirit free brush just go vertically over and it takes the sharpness off the edges. 

Another few posts and the squad should be done. 

Drake Seta

Pre-Heresy Death Guard: Streaks

Hi chaps. 

Just thought I would post about my recent eBay purchase. I have bought a pair of streaking paints for use on my armour. I will post a review of them when done :)